Climbing is a passion that can’t be deleted from the thoughts of a truest Adventurer! It’s a TEST of personal Aptitude!
Switching from climbing Eight-Thousander to Six-Thousander will not only save your time but also your pocket. Sitting among the Greatest 8oooers –Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Makalau, Island Peak is one of those rare mountains offering adventure of the highest sort!! 😀
Island Peak 20,305 ft (6,189 m) Alpine PD+ is a popular trekking peak located in the greater Khumbu region of Nepal. It was first conquered by a Swiss team of mountaineers during a training exercise in preparation for Everest in 1956.
It was named “Island Peak” by the Erik Shipton’s party in 1951, because it seemed like an island floating in the sea of ice when seen from Dingboche.
Being a commonly climbed peak in the world and one of the most climbed peaks in Nepal, Island Peak accompanies Mera Peak, Pokalde and Lobuje East as trekking peaks of Nepal.
Prior trekking/climbing experience is required to attempt the strenuous climb of this Six-Thousandeer. The ascent mostly requires hiking, scrambling and ice-axing. You Sherpa guides will help you set ropes and teach other essential techniques during the ascent.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Hiring a professional and certified guide is a must to avoid any undesired incidents during the trek. Why not Consult climbing experts from local based companies, some of which are Nepal Vision Treks & Expedition and Advanced Adventures (Both are based in Kathmandu).
Island Peak climbing is accessible through 4 different routes.
In order to reach the summit you’ll be expected to be able to climb to Scottish Grade II standard (steep snow, possible use of two ice tools, possible difficult cornice exit, but technical difficulties are short) or Alpine PD (some technical climbing and complicated glaciers).
~Union Internationale des Assocaitions D’Alpinisme (UIAA)
It is commonly climbed in two different seasons, Spring (March to June) and Autumn (September to November). The post-monsoon season tends to be somewhat crowded, however, best weather is guaranteed. Unfavorable weather can be detrimental.
Climb Route (Map)
Professional Tips provided by UIAA
- The summit attempt from Base Camp (BC) avoids a night spent at Advanced Camp (AC) that, during high season, can get overcrowded. It may be necessary to negotiate with other groups before leaving BC in order to ensure that there is a space to pitch your tent at AC.
- An ascent from BC requires a very early start (midnight or earlier) and often means a very late finish (sometimes in the dark). This option should only be considered by fit groups who are well acclimatized.
- Ascending from AC means you can start at 2 am and still descend in daylight.
- If you stay at AC you will need to take water, food and camping equipment with you. There are no toilets.
- Some people actually enjoy the experience and the atmosphere at the AC! It allows you to feel closer to the mountain and its environment and the surrounding scenery is very beautiful.